Day three on the bikes, St Louis, MO to Springfield, MO (26 June)

Will today be as dramatic as yesterday? We would soon find out.

356 kms (221 miles), 882 kms (547 miles) so far.

The routine was the same as yesterday. Buffet breakfast at 6:30, bags on the van at 7:45 and, once again, we were the first group away at 8:00. Looking out of the hotel window it was overcast. It wasn’t raining, but it had, and the roads were still wet.

We rolled out into the St Louis traffic just after 8:00. Steve had warned us the first hour would be interstate riding to get us clear of the city before picking up Route 66 again. He also advised wet weather gear. Five minutes later we knew why.

As we joined the freeway the heavens opened. It wasn’t cold, but it was heavy enough to make visibility difficult. Spray from the cars and 18-wheelers added to the challenge. Steve set a steady pace and we tucked in behind him. Nobody was in a hurry. An hour later we pulled into a coffee stop, peeled off the waterproofs and enjoyed a coffee and muffin. That proved to be the worst of the weather. For the rest of the day we had the odd spot of rain, but nothing worth stopping for.

The interstate isn’t frightening, but it certainly keeps you awake. We’re cruising at around 65 to 70 mph (105 to 112 km/h) and the traffic just keeps flowing around you. Cars and huge trucks pass on both sides. You have to stay switched on all the time. I don’t think any of us were disappointed when we exited the freeway and found ourselves back on old Route 66.

One thing that’s become obvious is that Route 66 isn’t really one road. Over the years it was rerouted several times. Sometimes you’re riding the original alignment, sometimes a later version and occasionally there are two Route 66s sitting side by side. The Interstate is never very far away, sometimes right beside you, sometimes hidden behind the trees, but the old road has a character all of its own.

The scenery changed noticeably today. Illinois was mostly flat farmland. Missouri feels greener and more alive. Rolling hills replaced the plains as we skirted the Ozarks. The roads began to twist gently through the forests instead of stretching arrow straight into the distance. The riding instantly became more enjoyable. Every few miles another Historic Route 66 sign appeared. They were brown in Illinois; here they’ve changed to blue. Even the water towers, poking above the trees in the little towns, have become something to look out for.

We rounded a sweeping bend and Steve indicated we were pulling over. We’d arrived in Cuba, Missouri, home of the world’s second-largest rocking chair. It used to be the world’s largest until Casey, Illinois built an even bigger one. Frankly, I think that’s cheating.

A sticker from The Road Ahead found its way onto the chair in support of the rightful champions.

Next door was one of those gift shops that looked tiny from the outside but somehow kept getting bigger the further you walked in. Craig reckoned it was like the TARDIS. Steven from Wales was enjoying it so much he completely missed the group photo. He’s quietly building a reputation for always being the last one back.

About an hour later we arrived at the Route 66 Diner in St Robert. Another proper American diner with a real 50s feel to it. Steve had called ahead and they had an EagleRider menu waiting for us.

We sat down and were joined by Sebastian, the CEO of EagleRider. We had a really enjoyable chat. He told us about his journey from being CEO of Gold’s Gym to becoming a customer of EagleRider before eventually being asked to run the company. He was interested in why we’d chosen this trip and quickly worked out that it had taken a bit of persuasion to make it happen. He wasn’t wrong.

When lunch finished we got up to pay. Sebastian wouldn’t hear of it. He picked up the bill and simply asked us to pay it forward before the trip was over. A lovely gesture and one we’ll definitely honour.

Back on the bikes we headed for fuel before Google Maps had what can only be described as a brain fart. The road simply… stopped. We turned around, took another route and found ourselves on a muddy dirt road thanks to the morning’s rain. We took it steadily and, to be fair, the Harleys handled it far better than any of us expected before delivering us safely back onto the tarmac.

Our next stop claimed to be the World’s Largest Gift Store. Whether it actually is or not I couldn’t tell you, although I’m fairly sure I’ve seen another shop make the same claim. It might even have been the World’s Largest Adult Toy Store in Las Vegas… although, for the record, we definitely didn’t go in…

Steve told us we only had around 45 minutes left before the hotel but he had one more stop planned.

Buc-ee’s.

I’ve never seen anything like it.

Imagine a petrol station the size of a retail park. Fuel pumps disappearing into the distance, a supermarket, fast-food outlets, gift shop and bakery all rolled into one. The place was absolutely heaving. Every few minutes someone shouted “Brisket on the Block!” and people queued for fresh barbecue.

Apparently the business started because the owner’s wife complained she could never find a clean public restroom. Well, if that’s true, mission accomplished. They were absolutely spotless. As I walked out another cleaner was walking in. It just shows what happens when you build a business around doing the basics brilliantly.

We stocked up on brisket sandwiches, salads and desserts for dinner before riding the final few miles to the hotel in Springfield.

For a day that had been forecast to be wet from start to finish, we got away lightly. Apart from the first hour leaving St Louis, the weather was kind to us. The roads were getting better, the scenery was changing again and the temperatures were beginning to climb.

A quick dip in the hotel pool freshened us up before we enjoyed our Buc-ee’s feast outside, only retreating indoors when the rain finally caught us.

Tomorrow we leave Missouri behind and head into Oklahoma.

It’s only… 24 hours to Tulsa.